On the northern frontier of Kenya arid spheres lay one of the most
spectacular wilderness thrills. With its harsh surrounding, you will be
forgiven to think the ecosystem is misplaced and its attraction far
fetched by unknown phenomena. But you are mistaken; the real thrill is
true, authentic and natural. I am talking about Lake Paradise and the
greater Marsabit national reserve and off course not forgetting the
ancient Marsabit town
Mount Marsabit is famous for the dreamy waters of Lake Paradise which
are located on its peak, for the foothills of rugged grandeur that fan
out from its volcanic craters, and for the cloud forests which shelter
both greater kudu and an ancient dynasty of elephants famous for their
huge tusks.
Marsabit town and its sanctuaries lie atop a mountain rising sheer
from the desert floor to a height of about 1707 meters. The mountain is a
natural phenomenon, born out of volcanic fire and shaped by mist where
its great massive ranges and undulating peaks have created its own
ambient climate. Every evening, about midnight, the hot air rising from
the desert floor cools and forms clinging fingers of mist, which grasp
the mountain slopes, rarely releasing their grip until the late part of
the morning.
On the road south from Mount Marsabit to the rocky plains the area is
home to Sociable Weaver birds, which can be identified by their neater,
tidier nests; Sparrow Weavers, with their “scruffier” nests; and
white-bellied turacos. The area also unfolds indescribable natural
phenomenon while passing through extraordinary Strangler figs in the
mountain-top forest. This displays a stark contrast to the dusty track
below which is lined by low, flat-topped acacias.
Many species of raptors inhabit the shaggy cliffs and the treetops
around Lake Paradise and Sokorte Guda, a cliff lined bowl, which forms a
natural amphitheatre in which Marsabit’s elephants parade to drink in
the late afternoon. Large herds of buffalo and other ungulates join this
display. Other species found on the mountain include the shy greater
kudu and other antelope as well as lions and leopards.
Although the lower slopes are scorched and dry, above them is a
richly forested wonderland of crater lakes and swamps, towering cliffs
and giant trees, with an astounding display of wildlife. Here bird and
beast dart between the tall stands of juniper and podocarpus in a scene
much as wildlife filmmakers Osa and Martin Johnson recorded when they
made their home at Lake Paradise, one of the crater lakes, in the
1920’s.
For an estimated 63 years, Marsabit National Park and Reserve was the
home of Ahmed, patriarch of the forest, guarded from hunters seeking
his mighty tusks, by a presidential decree. A model of Ahmed now stands
in the National Museum in Nairobi while his scions wander the forest
under the watchful eyes of the Marsabit Reserve’s rangers.
Lower down the mountain, below the forest line, groups of Borana
people drive their camels to water at the singing wells. Three or four
men form a human ladder down these deep shafts and with camel-hide
buckets work in swift relay to bring water to the troughs above. The
songs they sing while undertaking this work have earned the wells their
name.
Marsabit Town is a staging post for the journey to Moyale and onwards
to Ethiopia and also the beginning of an adventure, which intrepid
travelers make when they cross the inhospitable Chalbi Desert to reach
Lake Turkana. This shimmering and seemingly endless expanse of sand
stretches for 300 kilometers to the shore of the lake of which it were
once part. Even today, perhaps once in every decade, in one of the
torrential downpours, which occur during a rare rainy season, it will
again come into flood to form a vast but shallow lake.
From Nairobi, the reserve is reached via Nanyuki and lsiolo a
distance of 620 km. The road is paved up to lsiolo leaving a distance of
270 km of very bad road that is only motorable by 4 wheel-drive
vehicles during the dry season. The reserve is 2 1/2 hrs by air from
Nairobi and is adequately served by a tarmac airstrip located about one
kilometer from Marsabit town centre.
There is no doubt that lake paradise and the surrounding enclosures
of Marsabit national reserve will soon be proclaimed world wonders that
every soul will aspire to experience.
PKP - Kenya Safari desk
Natural Track Safaris
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